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Complete Plant Care Guide: Essential Tips for All Plant Lovers

Master the fundamentals of plant care with this comprehensive guide covering watering, lighting, soil, fertilizing, pruning, pest control, and troubleshooting for both indoor and outdoor plants.

•16 min read

Caring for plants is both an art and a science - a rewarding practice that connects us to nature, purifies our air, and brings life and beauty into our spaces. Whether you're a complete beginner with your first succulent or an experienced gardener expanding your collection, understanding the fundamental principles of plant care ensures your green companions not only survive but thrive.

The good news is that successful plant care doesn't require a green thumb or mystical intuition. It requires understanding each plant's basic needs - water, light, nutrients, proper temperature, and humidity - then observing how your plant responds and adjusting care accordingly. In this comprehensive guide, you'll learn evidence-based techniques for plant care, common mistakes to avoid, and expert tips for keeping your plants healthy through every season.

Understanding Your Plant's Needs

Every plant has evolved to thrive in specific conditions - deserts, rainforests, temperate forests, or tropical wetlands. Successful plant care begins with understanding your plant's natural habitat and recreating those conditions as closely as possible. A cactus from the Arizona desert needs very different care than a fern from a Costa Rican cloud forest.

Before bringing a new plant home, research its specific requirements. Find out if it's a tropical plant needing high humidity and indirect light, a desert plant requiring bright sun and infrequent watering, or a temperate plant that benefits from seasonal temperature changes. Understanding these basics prevents the most common plant care mistakes and sets you up for success from day one.

Plants communicate their needs through visual cues. Learning to read these signals - leaf color changes, growth patterns, wilting, or dropping leaves - allows you to adjust care before problems become severe. Healthy plants have vibrant color, firm stems, new growth, and leaves that are appropriate size and shape for the species. Regularly observe your plants, noting changes in appearance or growth rate.

Mastering the Art of Watering

Watering is the most critical and most commonly misunderstood aspect of plant care. More plants die from incorrect watering - particularly overwatering - than any other cause. The golden rule: it's better to underwater than overwater. Underwatered plants show obvious distress and usually recover quickly once watered, but overwatered plants develop root rot that often proves fatal.

How to Water Correctly

Check soil moisture before watering by inserting your finger 1-2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, water thoroughly until water drains from the bottom holes. If it feels moist, wait. This simple test prevents most watering problems. For plants in pots without drainage holes (not recommended), water sparingly and never let the plant sit in standing water.

When you water, water thoroughly. Light surface watering encourages shallow root systems. Instead, water until excess drains from bottom holes, ensuring the entire root ball gets moisture. Discard drained water from saucers - plants sitting in water develop root rot. For large plants, water slowly, allowing soil to absorb moisture rather than running straight through dry, compacted soil.

Watering Frequency by Plant Type

High water needs (water when top inch dries): Ferns, peace lilies, calatheas, most tropical plants, herbs, vegetables. These plants evolved in moist environments and stress quickly when dry. Moderate water needs (water when top 2 inches dry): Pothos, philodendrons, spider plants, most common houseplants. Allow slight drying between waterings. Low water needs (water when soil mostly dry): Succulents, cacti, snake plants, ZZ plants. These drought-adapted plants store water and rot if overwatered.

Water Quality and Temperature

Use room temperature water - cold water shocks roots, especially for tropical plants. If your tap water contains heavy chlorine, fluoride, or minerals, let it sit overnight before using, or collect rainwater. Some sensitive plants (calatheas, prayer plants, carnivorous plants) prefer distilled or filtered water. Hard water leaves white mineral deposits on soil surface and can build up to toxic levels over time. If you notice crusty buildup, flush soil with distilled water or repot.

Seasonal Watering Adjustments

Plants need less water in winter when growth slows or stops completely. Many houseplants enter semi-dormancy with shorter days and cooler temperatures, using less water. In winter, you might water monthly instead of weekly. Conversely, increase watering frequency in summer when plants grow actively and heat increases evaporation. Outdoor plants need more water during hot, windy, or sunny weather. Always let the plant and soil guide your watering schedule rather than following a rigid calendar.

Providing Proper Light

Light is the energy source for photosynthesis, the process plants use to create food. Without adequate light, plants cannot grow, no matter how perfect other conditions are. Understanding light levels and matching plants to appropriate locations is fundamental to plant care success.

Understanding Light Levels

Bright direct light means at least 4-6 hours of direct sun hitting the plant. South-facing windows provide this in the northern hemisphere. Cacti, succulents, herbs, citrus, and flowering plants need direct sun. Bright indirect light means bright, filtered light without direct sun rays - near but not in a sunny window, or through sheer curtains. Most tropical houseplants prefer this. Medium light means several feet from a window or north-facing windows. Many foliage plants tolerate medium light. Low light means minimal natural light, like interior rooms away from windows. Very few plants truly thrive in low light, though some tolerate it.

Signs of Incorrect Light Levels

Too little light: Leggy, stretched growth with long spaces between leaves as the plant reaches for light. Small, pale leaves. Leaning dramatically toward the light source. Loss of variegation in variegated plants. No new growth or very slow growth. Lower leaves dropping. Too much light: Bleached, washed-out, or pale leaves. Brown, crispy patches on leaves (sunburn). Leaves curling or folding to reduce surface area. Soil drying very quickly. Plant wilting even when watered. In extreme cases, entire leaves turning brown and dying.

Using Artificial Grow Lights

When natural light is insufficient, grow lights provide an excellent supplement or replacement. Full-spectrum LED grow lights are most efficient and effective, mimicking natural sunlight. Position lights 6-12 inches above plants for 12-16 hours daily. Fluorescent shop lights work well for low to medium light plants. Grow lights enable plant collections in dark apartments, basements, or offices. They're essential for starting seeds, growing herbs and vegetables indoors, and maintaining tropical plants through dark winter months.

Rotating and Positioning Plants

Plants grow toward light sources, causing uneven, lopsided growth. Rotate pots a quarter turn weekly to encourage even, symmetrical growth. For plants near windows, observe how sunlight changes through seasons - summer sun is intense and may require sheer curtains, while winter sun is weak and plants can move closer to windows. Adjust plant positions seasonally to maintain appropriate light levels year-round.

Choosing and Maintaining Proper Soil

Soil is more than just a growing medium - it's a living ecosystem that anchors roots, holds water and nutrients, and provides air to roots. The right soil makes plant care easier while poor soil leads to constant problems regardless of how carefully you water and fertilize.

Components of Good Potting Mix

Quality potting mixes contain three basic components: Organic matter (peat moss, coconut coir, or compost) retains moisture and nutrients. Drainage materials (perlite, pumice, coarse sand, or bark) create air spaces and prevent compaction. Nutritional amendments (worm castings, compost, or slow-release fertilizer) provide nutrients. The ratio varies by plant type - standard houseplant mix is roughly 60% organic matter, 30% drainage material, 10% amendments.

Specialized Soil Mixes

Cactus and succulent mix: Extra drainage with 50% perlite or pumice, drains in seconds. Orchid mix: Bark-based, extremely chunky, holds minimal water but provides air to roots. African violet mix: Light, fluffy, slightly acidic with extra perlite. Seed starting mix: Fine, sterile, nutrient-free to prevent damping off disease. Acidic mix: For acid-loving plants like blueberries, azaleas, gardenias - includes peat and sulfur. Using appropriate specialized mixes prevents most soil-related problems.

When to Replace Soil

Potting soil breaks down over time, becoming compacted, water-repellent, and depleted of nutrients. Replace soil every 2-3 years even if you don't repot to a larger container. Signs soil needs replacement: water runs straight through without absorbing (hydrophobic), soil is extremely compacted, white salt crust on surface, foul smell (anaerobic decomposition), or fungus gnats (breeding in decomposing organic matter). Fresh soil solves many mysterious plant problems.

Fertilizing for Healthy Growth

Plants in containers have limited soil volume and nutrients, unlike plants in the ground that can extend roots widely. Regular fertilizing replenishes nutrients that water leaches away and plants consume during growth. However, over-fertilizing is as harmful as under-fertilizing, causing salt buildup, root burn, and weak, leggy growth.

Understanding NPK Ratios

Fertilizer labels show three numbers representing NPK - nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium percentages. Nitrogen (N) promotes leafy, green growth - use higher nitrogen (10-5-5) for foliage plants like pothos and ferns. Phosphorus (P) encourages flowering and root development - use higher phosphorus (5-10-5) for flowering plants, fruiting plants, and seedlings. Potassium (K) supports overall plant health, disease resistance, and stress tolerance. Balanced fertilizers (10-10-10 or 20-20-20) work well for most houseplants.

Fertilizing Schedule and Methods

Fertilize actively growing plants during spring and summer. Use liquid fertilizer every 2-4 weeks at half the recommended strength - more frequent, diluted feeding is safer than infrequent, full-strength doses. Alternatively, apply slow-release granules once at the beginning of growing season. Reduce or stop fertilizing in fall and winter when plants are dormant or growing slowly. Never fertilize dry plants - water first, then fertilize, to prevent root burn. Water plants after applying granular fertilizer to activate nutrients.

Organic vs. Synthetic Fertilizers

Synthetic fertilizers provide immediately available nutrients in precise ratios but don't improve soil structure and can build up salts. They're convenient for houseplants. Organic fertilizers (compost, worm castings, fish emulsion, kelp) release nutrients slowly as microorganisms break them down, improving soil health but providing less precise nutrient control. Many gardeners use both - synthetic for fast results when needed, organic for long-term soil health. For houseplants, liquid organic fertilizers like fish emulsion or compost tea work excellently.

Signs of Fertilizer Problems

Over-fertilization: White or yellow crust on soil surface (salt buildup), brown or burned leaf tips and edges, leaves curling or wilting despite moist soil, stunted growth, fertilizer residue on pot exterior. Solution: flush soil with water 3-4 times to leach salts, stop fertilizing for several months. Under-fertilization: Pale or yellow leaves (especially new growth), small leaves, slow or no growth during growing season, plants not reaching expected size, weak stems. Solution: resume regular fertilizing at half strength, increase gradually.

Temperature and Humidity Requirements

Temperature and humidity significantly affect plant health but are often overlooked. Most common houseplants are tropical species comfortable in typical home temperatures (65-75°F), but humidity requirements vary dramatically between species.

Temperature Considerations

Most houseplants tolerate 60-80°F, though specific preferences vary. Tropical plants suffer below 50°F. Cacti and succulents tolerate wider temperature ranges but appreciate cooler winter temperatures (50-55°F) to trigger flowering. Avoid temperature extremes and sudden changes - don't place plants near heating vents, air conditioners, drafty windows, or exterior doors. Heat stress causes wilting, dropping leaves, and dried leaf edges. Cold stress causes darkened leaves, blackened stems, and sudden leaf drop.

Increasing Humidity

Tropical plants need 50-60% humidity, while most homes maintain 30-40%, especially in winter when heating dries air. Low humidity causes brown leaf tips, crispy edges, curling leaves, and increased pest problems. Increase humidity by: grouping plants together (they create microclimates through transpiration), using a humidifier (most effective, especially in winter), placing pots on pebble trays filled with water (ensure pots sit above water level), misting leaves daily (temporary and requires consistency), or moving plants to naturally humid rooms like bathrooms.

Air Circulation

Good air circulation prevents fungal diseases, discourages pests, and strengthens stems. However, avoid direct drafts from windows, doors, or heating/cooling vents. Gentle air movement from ceiling fans or oscillating fans works well. Overcrowded plants with poor air circulation are prone to powdery mildew, botrytis, and pest infestations. Space plants appropriately and prune dense growth to improve airflow through the canopy.

Pruning and Grooming

Regular pruning and grooming keep plants healthy, attractive, and productive. Pruning removes dead or diseased material, shapes plants, encourages bushier growth, and controls size. Many people fear pruning will harm plants, but most plants benefit from strategic trimming.

Basic Pruning Techniques

Use clean, sharp scissors, pruning shears, or a knife to make clean cuts. Sterilize blades with rubbing alcohol between plants to prevent disease spread. Remove dead, damaged, or diseased leaves and stems promptly - they drain plant energy and harbor pests. Cut just above a leaf node (where leaves attach to stem) at a 45-degree angle. This encourages new growth from that point. For leggy plants, cut back stems by 1/3 to 1/2 to promote bushy growth. Best time to prune is spring when active growth begins, though you can remove dead material anytime.

Pinching and Deadheading

Pinching means removing growing tips with fingers or scissors. This forces plants to branch rather than grow tall and leggy, creating fuller, bushier plants. Pinch herbs regularly to prevent flowering and maintain leaf production. Deadheading is removing spent flowers before they set seed. This encourages plants to produce more flowers rather than directing energy to seed production. Deadhead roses, petunias, marigolds, and other flowering plants throughout the blooming season for continuous flowers.

Cleaning Leaves

Dust accumulation on leaves blocks light and reduces photosynthesis. Wipe large, smooth leaves with a damp cloth monthly. Shower small-leaved plants in the sink or shower with lukewarm water. For fuzzy-leaved plants (African violets), use a soft brush rather than water. Avoid leaf shine products - they clog pores and attract dust. Clean leaves also allow you to inspect for pests early when they're easiest to treat.

Pest and Disease Management

Even with excellent care, plants occasionally face pest or disease problems. Early detection and prompt treatment prevent minor issues from becoming major infestations. Regular inspection is your first line of defense - check plants weekly, examining leaf undersides, stem joints, and soil surface.

Common Indoor Plant Pests

Spider mites: Tiny red or brown dots visible with magnification, fine webbing between leaves and stems, stippled or yellowing leaves. Treat by showering plants, increasing humidity, and spraying with neem oil or insecticidal soap weekly for 3-4 weeks. Aphids: Small green, black, or white soft-bodied insects clustering on new growth. Spray off with water or treat with insecticidal soap. Mealybugs: White cottony masses in leaf joints and on stems. Remove with cotton swabs dipped in rubbing alcohol, then spray entire plant with neem oil.

Scale insects: Brown or white bumps on stems and leaf undersides that look like part of the plant. Scrape off with fingernail or dull knife, then spray with horticultural oil. Fungus gnats: Tiny black flies around plants, larvae in soil eating roots. Caused by overwatering. Let soil dry completely between waterings, use yellow sticky traps for adults, and treat soil with mosquito bits (containing Bt bacteria that kills larvae). Thrips: Tiny, slender insects causing silvery streaking on leaves. Treat with neem oil or spinosad sprays.

Common Plant Diseases

Root rot: Caused by overwatering and poor drainage. Symptoms include yellowing leaves, wilting despite wet soil, and blackened, mushy roots. Treatment requires removing plant from pot, cutting away all rotted roots with sterile tools, repotting in fresh, well-draining soil, and adjusting watering practices. Powdery mildew: White powdery coating on leaves, caused by high humidity with poor air circulation. Treat with neem oil or baking soda solution, improve air circulation, and reduce humidity. Leaf spot diseases: Brown or black spots on leaves, often with yellow halos. Remove affected leaves, avoid overhead watering, and improve air circulation.

Prevention and Treatment Strategies

Prevent pest and disease problems by: quarantining new plants for 2-3 weeks before introducing them to your collection, inspecting plants thoroughly before purchase, maintaining proper watering and avoiding overwatering, providing adequate air circulation, cleaning up fallen leaves and debris, and sterilizing tools between plants. When treating pests: isolate infected plants immediately, treat entire plant including undersides of all leaves, repeat treatments weekly for 3-4 weeks to break pest life cycles, and inspect nearby plants for spread.

Repotting: When and How

Repotting refreshes depleted soil and provides room for growing roots. However, many plants prefer being slightly rootbound, so don't repot unless there's a good reason. Signs a plant needs repotting include roots growing out of drainage holes, water draining immediately without absorbing, extremely slow growth despite proper care, or it's been 2-3 years since the last repotting.

The Repotting Process

Repot in spring when active growth begins. Water plant thoroughly 1-2 days before repotting. Choose a pot 1-2 inches larger in diameter - too large causes soil to stay wet too long. Ensure new pot has drainage holes. Gently remove plant from old pot (you may need to run a knife around the inside edge). Loosen root ball gently, removing old soil and untangling circling roots. Trim any dead, mushy, or extremely long roots with clean scissors. Place fresh potting mix in the new pot, position plant at same depth as before, fill around roots with more mix, and firm gently. Water thoroughly and place in indirect light for a week to reduce transplant shock.

Pot Selection

Terracotta pots: Porous, allow air to roots, dry quickly - good for succulents, herbs, and plants prone to overwatering. Require more frequent watering. Plastic pots: Retain moisture longer, lightweight, inexpensive - good for moisture-loving plants and large specimens. Ceramic glazed pots: Beautiful but non-porous, retain moisture like plastic. Self-watering pots: Reservoir systems reduce watering frequency - excellent for vacations or forgetful waterers. All pots must have drainage holes unless you're experienced with drainage-free cultivation.

Seasonal Plant Care

Plant needs change with seasons. Understanding these natural cycles and adjusting care accordingly keeps plants healthy year-round and prevents confusion when plants behave differently in winter than summer.

Spring and Summer Care

Spring signals the start of active growth for most plants. Days lengthen, temperatures warm, and plants emerge from winter dormancy. This is the time to repot if needed, increase watering frequency, and resume regular fertilizing. Plants produce vigorous new growth - the perfect time for propagation from cuttings. Watch for pests which also become active in spring. Summer brings peak growth. Water more frequently as plants use more water and heat increases evaporation. Move plants from harsh midday sun if leaves show sunburn. Maintain humidity for tropical plants as air conditioning dries air.

Fall and Winter Care

As days shorten and temperatures drop, most houseplants slow or stop growing, entering semi-dormancy. Reduce watering frequency - soil takes longer to dry and plants use less water. Stop or dramatically reduce fertilizing - feeding dormant plants wastes fertilizer and can cause salt buildup. Move plants away from cold windows and heating vents. Tropical plants may drop some leaves in winter - this is normal. Increase humidity as heating dries indoor air. Resist the urge to over-care - more plants die in winter from over-attention (overwatering and over-fertilizing dormant plants) than neglect.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Even experienced plant caregivers encounter problems. Learning to diagnose issues and correct them quickly is essential to plant care success.

Yellow Leaves

The most common plant complaint. Overwatering: Yellow leaves with wet soil, often with brown edges, mushy stems - reduce watering, improve drainage. Underwatering: Yellow leaves with dry, crispy edges and dry soil - increase watering frequency. Natural aging: Lower leaves yellowing while new growth looks healthy - completely normal, remove yellowed leaves. Nutrient deficiency: Yellowing new growth or overall pale appearance - resume fertilizing. Light issues: Yellowing with leggy growth - increase light.

Brown Leaf Tips and Edges

Low humidity: Most common cause for tropical plants - increase humidity. Salt buildup: From over-fertilizing or hard water - flush soil thoroughly with distilled water. Fluoride or chlorine sensitivity: Use filtered or distilled water. Underwatering: Crispy brown tips and edges with dry soil - water more frequently and thoroughly. Overfertilizing: Brown tips with white crust on soil - flush soil, reduce fertilizer.

Dropping Leaves

Environmental shock: Sudden temperature change, drafts, moving location - minimize stress and maintain consistent conditions. Underwatering: Leaves drop when severely stressed by drought - water immediately. Overwatering: Yellowing leaves that drop easily - check for root rot, reduce watering. Low light: Plant drops leaves it cannot support - move to brighter location. Seasonal dormancy: Some plants naturally drop leaves in winter - resume care in spring.

No Growth or Stunted Growth

Winter dormancy: Most plants stop growing in winter - this is normal. Insufficient light: Most common cause - move to brighter location. Rootbound: Roots filling pot completely - repot to larger container. Nutrient deficiency: Resume regular fertilizing during growing season. Pest infestation: Pests drain plant energy - treat immediately. Wrong season: Some plants grow in winter, others summer - research your specific plant's active growing period.

Conclusion

Successful plant care combines knowledge, observation, and adaptability. While this guide provides comprehensive information about fundamental plant care principles, remember that every plant is an individual, and environmental conditions vary in every home. The most important skill you can develop is learning to observe your plants and respond to their needs.

Start with easy, forgiving plants like pothos, snake plants, or spider plants to build confidence. As you gain experience, you'll develop intuition for plant needs. Don't be discouraged by occasional failures - even experienced gardeners lose plants. Each plant teaches valuable lessons about care requirements and environmental conditions.

The reward for learning proper plant care is immeasurable. You'll create a thriving indoor jungle, connect with nature daily, purify your air, reduce stress, and experience the joy of nurturing living things. Your plants will reward your care with lush growth, beautiful flowers, and years of companionship. Start today, be patient with yourself and your plants, and enjoy the journey into the wonderful world of plant parenthood.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I water my plants?

Watering frequency depends on plant type, pot size, soil, season, and environment. Most houseplants need water when the top 1-2 inches of soil feel dry. Succulents and cacti need water every 2-3 weeks, tropical plants weekly, and ferns need consistently moist soil. In winter, reduce watering as plants grow slowly. Check soil moisture with your finger before watering. Overwatering kills more plants than underwatering. Signs of overwatering include yellow leaves, wilting despite wet soil, and root rot. Signs of underwatering include dry, crispy leaves and soil pulling away from pot edges.

How much light do indoor plants need?

Light requirements vary by species: Bright direct light (6+ hours direct sun) - cacti, succulents, herbs, citrus. Bright indirect light (4-6 hours filtered light) - most tropical plants, prayer plants, fiddle leaf figs, pothos. Medium light (2-4 hours indirect light) - snake plants, ZZ plants, peace lilies. Low light (minimal natural light, fluorescent bulbs) - pothos, philodendrons, cast iron plants. South-facing windows provide brightest light, north-facing the least. Rotate plants weekly for even growth. Signs of too much light: bleached or brown leaves, dry soil. Too little light: leggy growth, small leaves, leaning toward light, loss of variegation.

What type of soil is best for houseplants?

Most houseplants need well-draining potting mix that retains some moisture but doesn't stay soggy. Standard houseplant mix contains peat moss or coir (water retention), perlite or pumice (drainage), and sometimes bark or compost (nutrients). Cacti and succulents need specialized cactus mix with extra sand and perlite for rapid drainage. Orchids need bark-based mix. African violets prefer light, fluffy mix with extra perlite. Never use garden soil indoors - it's too dense and harbors pests. Good potting mix should feel light, drain within seconds, and contain visible air pockets. Replace soil every 2-3 years as it breaks down and compacts.

When and how should I fertilize my plants?

Fertilize actively growing plants during spring and summer every 2-4 weeks with diluted liquid fertilizer or monthly with slow-release granules. Reduce or stop fertilizing in fall and winter when plants are dormant. Use balanced fertilizer (10-10-10 NPK) for foliage plants, higher phosphorus (5-10-5) for flowering plants, and higher nitrogen (10-5-5) for leafy vegetables. Dilute liquid fertilizer to half strength to prevent burning roots. Signs of over-fertilization: white crust on soil surface, brown leaf tips, stunted growth. Signs of deficiency: pale or yellow leaves, poor growth, small leaves. Organic options include compost tea, worm castings, and fish emulsion.

How do I know if my plant is dying?

Common signs of plant distress include: Yellowing leaves (overwatering, nutrient deficiency, or natural aging of lower leaves), brown crispy leaves (underwatering, low humidity, or too much direct sun), wilting despite wet soil (root rot from overwatering), dropping leaves (sudden environment change, drafts, or pest infestation), stunted growth (rootbound, poor lighting, or nutrient deficiency), and black or mushy stems (root rot or fungal disease). To save a dying plant: identify the problem, adjust care immediately, remove dead foliage, check for pests, and consider repotting if rootbound or soil is poor quality. Most plants can recover if you catch problems early.

What are the most common plant pests and how do I treat them?

Common houseplant pests include: Spider mites (tiny red/brown dots, fine webbing, stippled leaves - treat with neem oil spray), aphids (small green/black insects on new growth - spray with insecticidal soap), mealybugs (white cottony masses in leaf joints - remove with rubbing alcohol on cotton swab), fungus gnats (tiny black flies from overwatered soil - let soil dry, use yellow sticky traps), and scale insects (brown bumps on stems/leaves - scrape off, spray with horticultural oil). For all pests: isolate infected plants, spray entire plant including undersides of leaves, repeat treatment weekly for 3-4 weeks, improve air circulation, and avoid overwatering which attracts pests.

When should I repot my plants?

Repot plants when: roots grow out of drainage holes, water drains immediately without absorbing (rootbound), growth has slowed or stopped despite proper care, soil depletes quickly requiring frequent watering, or it's been 2-3 years since last repotting. Best time to repot is spring when plants begin active growth. Choose a pot 1-2 inches larger in diameter - too large causes waterlogged soil. Ensure pots have drainage holes. Gently loosen root ball, remove old soil, trim dead roots, and place in fresh potting mix. Water thoroughly after repotting. Don't fertilize for 4-6 weeks as fresh soil contains nutrients. Some plants (snake plants, pothos) prefer being slightly rootbound.

How can I increase humidity for tropical plants?

Tropical plants need 50-60% humidity, while most homes have 30-40%. Increase humidity by: 1) Grouping plants together - they create a microclimate through transpiration. 2) Using a humidifier - most effective method, especially in winter when heating dries air. 3) Placing pots on pebble trays filled with water - ensure pot sits above water level. 4) Misting leaves daily - temporary solution but requires consistency. 5) Moving plants to naturally humid rooms like bathrooms or kitchens. 6) Using terrariums for humidity-loving plants like ferns and nerve plants. Signs of low humidity: brown leaf tips, crispy edges, and dropping leaves. Monitor with a hygrometer to maintain optimal levels.